I always struggle with leaving home because I'm afraid I'll miss something. I'm afraid that I won't be there when my family and close friends really need me. Which is why this Christmas was somewhat of a mixed blessing because it's as if the universe was waiting until I got home so I could be part of it all. This will go down in "The Life of Julie" as by far the most bizarre christmas. I'd like to hear if someone else can top this one...
I had a rather rough last week in Nicaragua and was very much looking forward to getting home. Only I got home and the whole house was a bit crazy. No need to disclose all family secrets but let's just say there was a bit of an emotional tidal wave with a house of four women and my poor father. Then we get a call....
Grandma got run over by a golf cart. The "Grandma got run over by a reindeer" song took on a whole new meaning. The golf cart literally just plowed into my sweet little old grandma as she stood there waiting to get picked up and taken to dinner at another house at her retirement home. I know it had to have been an accident because my grandma is quite a lot like an elderly version of Cindy Lou Who... not even the Grinch himself could be mean to her. And if you're trying to take out old people, you'd want to keep my grandma around the longest- there are plenty other Scrooges who should go first.
So we rushed to the emergency room and spent a fair amount of time over the next 6 days visiting her in the hospital. Truly miraculous, not a single bone was broken- just a gash in her head and a fractured skull. She actually stayed conscious throughout the whole extravaganza. On Christmas day, instead of dinner at Grandma's, we all piled into her hospital room with our Martinelli's sparkling cider in paper cups and Christmas ham on plastic plates. Not a Christmas I'd ever wish to repeat, but considering the circumstances it was quite merry.
The thing is, even before this strange turn of events, Christmas felt a little strange. It's weird to try to wrap my head around California, Texas and Nicaragua all being home. It's weird to be in the house I grew up in and realize just how much I have. It's weird to want to cry after reading the materialism jokes in the Christmas Day comics. I walk into Crate & Barrel and instead of mentally picking all the things I want some day, I leave feeling slightly sick and claustrophobic. I hold a baby at church and I have absolutely no desire to take it home with me. I walk around the neighborhood, passing by expensive houses and just keep thinking the ones in Nicaragua are so much more lovely with the breeze from the open windows and the tropical gardens. Just one week in the States and I already miss Nicaragua and the way of life there. But when I'm in Nicaragua, I miss my family and friends, not to mention the general comforts of the states.
Which raises a whole bunch of strange questions: What exactly is the American dream and why do we want it? Is it something I still want? If I don't actually want it, what does that mean that I want? What will my life look like? How do you define home? Do you ever really feel at home if you have more than one home? I'm on an adventure and I don't want it to stop yet, but will that pass? Do I really seriously think I could live abroad by myself? The answers that pop into my head for all of these questions surprise, excite and scare me all at the same time.
Of three things I am certain: 1) I have an amazing family that will be there for me no matter what, 2) I am becoming a person that I really love and am finally feeling good about life (for the most part), and 3) even if I didn't have those first two, I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that there is Somebody in control who loves me, who wants the best for me and who's got my back. Don't believe me? Ask for details.
Nothing like living abroad, business school application essays, Christmas in a hospital, family drama, cathartic tears and an upcoming best friend's wedding to make you think about things. Hmmm...
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Managua family
So it's officially December, and although it's still warm here, the christmas decorations are out in full force in the rotundas and you can't get much sleep because of all the "bombas" (translates to "bombs" but actually means very very loud fireworks). Though I guess technically Managua has been gearing up for the holidays before all of you back in the States... be thankful you've got Thanksgiving to keep it at bay.
All of these holiday festivities have made me very very excited to come home and see all of my family and best friends, but I have to say it's also made me realize that I've now got a sort of family here too. So it's probably about time I told you all about them.
First, let's start with my neighbors. Joce, a Nica chica wise beyond her years, lives 5 steps from my front door in the next studio. Her boyfriend Chris lives with Robbie, Bob and Carlos. They're all friends with my other gringo neighbor Joseph and together this pack of boys makes up my new group of older brothers to hang with. Joseph lives with Andres, the son of Amalia who lives in the main house and gave me all the furniture I needed, even though I moved into an unfurnished place. Joseph might possibly be the best neighbor ever because he gives me rides and teaches me just about everything he knows ( how to drive stick shift, how to cook and how to play guitar).
Last but definitely not least, there are my taxi drivers, who are more aptly called my chauffeurs or just plain friends. Javier, Ricardo, Jorge, Ramon and about 4 others constantly watch out for me- picking me up on time, taking me to my little "casita" without asking for directions, taking me to the bank and the grocery store, opening my doors for me, locking my doors whenever there are people walking around... it's like my own personal bodyguards/assistants. They know the ins and outs of everything... where to get the best exchange rate, what time the bank closes, where to go to catch a bus for each destination location, etc.
So I couldn't be more blessed or more taken care of. And while I'm so excited to see all of you back in the states, I'm definitely indebted to my new family here for making life so easy and keeping me from getting homesick.
All of these holiday festivities have made me very very excited to come home and see all of my family and best friends, but I have to say it's also made me realize that I've now got a sort of family here too. So it's probably about time I told you all about them.
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| The gang over at Joseph & Andres for Thanksgiving |
Then there's Pete, my partner in crime and the only other expat in the office who couldn't be a better coworker except for the fact that he's gone half the time traveling to El Salvador and Peru. Lucky guy.
Then there's a whole church of gringa missionaries and my biblestudy girls. And Neil and Kristen from Chaka Market, Amira & Lori from Manna Project, Emily from the Peace Corp, Eliza and Bridget from Fabretto... and all the other gringos from the embassy, other non-profits and other small businesses they've started. I don't think I could have put together a more inviting or more diverse group if I tried.
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| Eliza & Bridget, and "Amigos" bottle of wine |
So I couldn't be more blessed or more taken care of. And while I'm so excited to see all of you back in the states, I'm definitely indebted to my new family here for making life so easy and keeping me from getting homesick.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Things I'm learning
To get you all caught up on my life here, I thought it might be best to tell you all of the many things I've been learning...
- When an email to a Nicaragua government official bounces back, it's probably because you wrote ".gov" instead of ".gob" (english= government but spanish = gobierno). Details matter.
- Driving stick shift is not as easy as it looks. Stalling out on top of a mound of dirt- about as hard as it looks actually.
- Being in a culture where life moves slower can make you feel lazy, but also make you feel like you're on vacation every day. It also means that most others are taking life slow, so you won't get your data until at least 3 weeks after you ask for it. Which you shouldn't care too much about, because you're taking life slow.
- Strumming a guitar is not easy and pressing your fingers onto strings is unnatural. Apparently you get used to this, but I've only had one lesson so far. Technically, I've learned three cords already, but don't you dare ask me what they're called or where to put my fingers on the strings.
- Business school applications are unfortunately not comprised of just essays and a resume. You have to input a whole bunch of meaningless answers that take time and only add to the misery of the application experience. It's best to realize this extra frustration before its just 2 weeks before the submission deadline, but you'll probably be ok either way.
- Using canola oil to grease a pan will result in burnt brownies, plus the fact that the gas ovens here have max-min settings, not temperatures. Futhermore, a smart gringa would not attempt to use her own oven for the first time ever to make a dessert for a church Thanksgiving potluck. However, the top of the brownies will still be good and go very well with ice cream. And the mere fact that you burnt them means you just take soda to the church potluck and can enjoy a (nearly) whole pan of brownies on your own.
- Thanksgiving potlucks with gringos in Nicaragua are more like regular potlucks that include turkey than they are like a Thanksgiving dinner. Good luck finding a pumpkin here, and if you do, be willing to pay a pretty penny for it.
- Don't do 45 minutes of pilates after nearly a month of not really working out. You WILL be sore all over.
- Don't get deathly ill the day after doing said exercise overkill. Sore muscles don't feel any better when you have a fever, aches/pains and a very unhappy stomach.
- When the bottle says "take with plenty of water" it will not work to drink water and then sleep for an hour. You have to stay awake and keep drinking tons of water. Thankfully second time, not third, is a charm.
- It is important to have both Nica and gringo friends to take care of you when you're sick- one knows exactly what store will have 7-Up Light and the other has already been to see a doctor here and knows all about the miracle that is Cipro. ;)
Monday, November 15, 2010
Random update
I recently moved from my overpriced closet to an oasis. I now have a kitchen, and although I have yet to cook and actually fix myself something other than a sandwich, it's nice to have the option. I also have wonderful neighbors- a Nica family in the main house, their son Andres & Joseph (a gringo) in a two bedroom apartment and Joce (Nica but lived in the States til high school) in the studio next to mine.
There is also an awesome terrace with a hammock. There's also a grill area, beautiful grassy areas, immaculate gardening and a tamarindo tree with patio seating. I sleep with the windows open because it's so cool here and I really can't remember the last time I did that. And I get to use a washing machine myself (this is exciting people- I don't have to pay 50 cents per item anymore!). Plus there are people here that I love hanging out with and who I plan to mooch off of as much as possible- cooked dinners, free internet, great company, rides to the grocery store, stick shift driving lessons and maybe even some guitar lessons. What else could a girl ask for?
My new home involves a lot of animals, which is kinda fun. First, gotta give a shout out to the gecko that lives on my walls who I still need to name. Then there's the 4 guard dogs, the 2 cats, the millions of ants and the myriad of birds that wake me up every morning with their pleasant chirps. And tonight I met a scorpion while watching Glee on CastTV in the chair outside my apartment (where I can get an internet signal), eating my turkey sandwich and the gummy worms the gringas gave me for my birthday. The scorpion was very nice, just walked on by.
Which reminds me: the moms at church were laughing at all the ridiculous things they say that they never thought they would. Like "kids, don't go outside until I check for scorpions first." Or "Ok, you can go play, but not with the machetes."
Luckily, I am not responsible for any other living things, other than "Merma," my cactus. Let me explain the name. In Spanish, "merma" means the loss or shrinkage- basically what you lose of the beans once you clean them, take out the broken pieces, etc. My coworker thinks this is just hysterical because I am so good at killing things that I've already killed off multiple leaves of la Merma- which in Spanish means I've lost some of the loss, or the loss really isn't doing so well. Anyways, it's a fun word to say and a very cute little cactus. (picture to come later, if Merma lives long enough).
Fun fact: I actually knew the word "merma" before I came down here because of all the random Spanish literature I had to read in college- surprisingly this is not a common word here unless of course you're chilling with the bean producers. I also know strange words like "mamut" which means "mammoth." And apparently I say this word as if I am a professor, which Emily's nica boyfriend thinks is absolutely hysterical. And no, "mamut" did not come up in conversation- I found a way to work it in. Talented? I think yes.
And that concludes the world's most random blog ever. But at least you had something to read.
There is also an awesome terrace with a hammock. There's also a grill area, beautiful grassy areas, immaculate gardening and a tamarindo tree with patio seating. I sleep with the windows open because it's so cool here and I really can't remember the last time I did that. And I get to use a washing machine myself (this is exciting people- I don't have to pay 50 cents per item anymore!). Plus there are people here that I love hanging out with and who I plan to mooch off of as much as possible- cooked dinners, free internet, great company, rides to the grocery store, stick shift driving lessons and maybe even some guitar lessons. What else could a girl ask for?
My new home involves a lot of animals, which is kinda fun. First, gotta give a shout out to the gecko that lives on my walls who I still need to name. Then there's the 4 guard dogs, the 2 cats, the millions of ants and the myriad of birds that wake me up every morning with their pleasant chirps. And tonight I met a scorpion while watching Glee on CastTV in the chair outside my apartment (where I can get an internet signal), eating my turkey sandwich and the gummy worms the gringas gave me for my birthday. The scorpion was very nice, just walked on by.
Which reminds me: the moms at church were laughing at all the ridiculous things they say that they never thought they would. Like "kids, don't go outside until I check for scorpions first." Or "Ok, you can go play, but not with the machetes."
Luckily, I am not responsible for any other living things, other than "Merma," my cactus. Let me explain the name. In Spanish, "merma" means the loss or shrinkage- basically what you lose of the beans once you clean them, take out the broken pieces, etc. My coworker thinks this is just hysterical because I am so good at killing things that I've already killed off multiple leaves of la Merma- which in Spanish means I've lost some of the loss, or the loss really isn't doing so well. Anyways, it's a fun word to say and a very cute little cactus. (picture to come later, if Merma lives long enough).
Fun fact: I actually knew the word "merma" before I came down here because of all the random Spanish literature I had to read in college- surprisingly this is not a common word here unless of course you're chilling with the bean producers. I also know strange words like "mamut" which means "mammoth." And apparently I say this word as if I am a professor, which Emily's nica boyfriend thinks is absolutely hysterical. And no, "mamut" did not come up in conversation- I found a way to work it in. Talented? I think yes.
And that concludes the world's most random blog ever. But at least you had something to read.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Quarter of a century
So yesterday I turned 25 and I have to say it was one of the best birthdays of my life. Nothing like living abroad to make every facebook wall post mean that much more, and there were over 50! Thanks everyone!
Plus, gringos here go out of their way to be there for you. I had a dinner group about the size as I would have had in Dallas, which just blows my mind considering I've only been here about a month. It's just so easy to make friends when everyone is in the exact same "place" as you- the bonds here are just that much faster and easier.
Plus, gringos here go out of their way to be there for you. I had a dinner group about the size as I would have had in Dallas, which just blows my mind considering I've only been here about a month. It's just so easy to make friends when everyone is in the exact same "place" as you- the bonds here are just that much faster and easier.
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| The gang |
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| That's right, my friends brought me a chocolate cupcake (plus a whole bunch of American brand candies). And the restaurant gave us a free desert too! Two chocolate desserts in one day. YES! |
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| Blowing out the table candle :) |
And of course, what better time to turn 25 than when your life is exactly where you want it to be. Most people in this world are waiting for the next big thing, waiting for life to happen. Honestly, that was my life before I got here. But now I'm perfectly content. It's a strange feeling but such an incredible blessing.
I feel like I am exactly where I'm supposed to be and turning into the person that I want to be. I'm so excited to be another year older because it's only getting better. Looking back ten years, I've done and grown a lot since 15. Can't wait to see the person I'll have become and the things I'll have done by 35!
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Why the poor?
So I was reading "The Jesus I never knew" last night and Philip Yancey was talking about "God's preferential option for the poor" based on the Beatitudes and phrases like "blessed are the poor in spirit, and those that that hunger and thirst." Yeah, yeah, heard that before. But then I read Monika Hellwig's "advantages" to being poor:
- The poor know they are in urgent need of redemption
- The poor know not only their dependence on God and on powerful people but also their interdependence with one another
- The poor rest their security not on things but on people
- The poor have no exaggerated sense of their own importance and no exaggerated need of privacy
- The poor expect little from competition and much from cooperation
- The poor can distinguish between necessities and luxuries
- The poor can wait, because they have acquired a kind of dogged patience born of acknowledged dependence
- The fears of the poor are more realistic and less exaggerated, because they already know that one can survive great suffering and want
- When the poor have the Gospel preached to them, it sounds like good news and not like a threat or scolding
- The poor can respond to the call of the Gospel with a certain abondonment and uncomplicated totality because they have so little to lose and are ready for anything.
Friday, October 29, 2010
This is the way it is...
I've spent a good portion of this week traveling around Nicaragua for intereviews, including cities of Jinotega, Matagalpa, Sebaco and Esteli. On Thursday, we met one bean producer in San Ramon.
And before the interview, we stopped by the local cathedral to see a particular mural of the Devil tempting Jesus, supposedly painted at least 50 years ago.
Crazy thing about this mural: the Devil looks JUST like Daniel Ortega, the current president of Nicaragua. However, Ortega didn't really come into the Nica political scene until the late 70s. Creepy?
So it's probably about time I understand what's been going on in this country politically, since as you'll see in a moment, it got an impact on bean study. And while I could start with Gil Gonzalez de Avila back in 1522, I'm not a big history buff and I don't think you all really care that much anyways. I'll try to keep this interesting...
So, let's start with the spanish word "metido" which is often used to describe the current government's role in Nicaragua. It means something like "mixed up in" or "meddled in." The current government under Daniel Ortega is "metido" in various industries, including hotels and black beans. And while we can criticize the gov't here all we want, we should be careful where we point our fingers...
From 1909 until 1933, the United States grew in influence in Nicaragua (or better said, the US got "metido" in Nicaragua). How? US banks gave money to the bankrupt Treasury and US marines and warships showed up to support conservative president Adolfo DÃaz. US forces stayed metido in Nicaraguan politics with handpicked rulers until August 1925. Then the marines withdrew, didn't like the outcome, came back and reinstated their government and then finally withdrew in 1933, leaving behind the Nicaraguan National Guard, led by Anastasio Somoza GarcÃa.
After a popular rebellion resulted in the overthrow and exile of dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle in 1979, Daniel Ortega became a member of the ruling multipartisan junta (then became the de facto dictator) and was later elected president, serving from 1985 to 1990. Soon after Ortega came onto the scene, the US got "metido" again, funding the opposition or "Contras." In 1986, the World Court ruled that the United States had violated international law by mining the harbors in Nicaragua, but we refused to recognize the decision. That same year, we found out the US government funds from covert arms sales to Iran had been secretly given to the contras, even though Congress had banned aid (aka Iran-Contra scandal or "metido" big time).
Needless to say, Nicaragua fell into civil war and anyone with enough money and sense fled the country. (I don't know that it can technically be called a civil war if there is another country getting involved, but I guess we'd be hard pressed to find a civil war that falls into this pure definition)
With the earthquake and revolution and "civil war," Nicaragua experienced an economic downturn of epic magnitude. Previously the most developed economy of Central America, Nicaragua is now the 2nd poorest country in all of Latin America, behind Haiti.
And you can guess why the US was not keen on Ortega: his first period in office included a controversial program of land reform and wealth redistribution. When Ortega was defeated by Violeta Barrios de Chamorro in the 1990 presidential election, he did actually step down peacefully. And he was an unsuccessful candidate for president in 1996 and 2001 before winning the 2006 presidential election. .
So what about Ortega, you ask? I mean, he's painted as the devil in a church. (remember at this point we don't much like the Somozas or the US much either).
Sexual abuse allegations: Ok, this probably isn't top of anyone else's list, but I found it disturbing. His adopted stepdaughter wrote a 48 pg report accusing him of sexually abusing her from the time she was 11 until she was 22. Case couldn't proceed because Ortega had immunity as a member of parliament.
Economic control: Ortega, his family and lucky friends are metido in a few industries for their own profit, including black beans. Which leads nicely into...
Political alliances: Yes, that's right. Ortega is bff with Hugo Chavez in Venezuela. Hence why Nicaraguan subsistence farmers are growing black beans, which they don't eat, for a price that's supposedly higher than the international price. And there are only about 4-5 companies supposedly allowed to export black beans, only to Venezuela, even though its a "free market." Talk about profitable friendships.
But let's not forget that we're also not that keen on Ortegas' competition for the 2011 election: Arnoldo Alemán, who was formerly president of Nicaragua between Chamorro and Ortega's second term. Aleman was formally charged in December 2002 and was sentenced a year later to a 20-year prison term for some pretty bad stuff, including money laundering, embezzlement and corruption. Apparently, he had a little too much fun with the gov't AMEX "including a $13,755 bill for the Ritz Carlton hotel in Bali and $68,506 for hotel expenses and handicrafts in India." In 2004, Transparency International named him the ninth most corrupt leader, estimating that he had stolen about $100 million. METIDO Why hasn't Hollywood made a movie about this?
Then of course, arch enemies Aleman and Ortega made a strategic alliance, which got Aleman off the hook for his jail sentence and got Ortega back into the presidency. And these are the two that are running in 2011. Great.
On top of all that, don't forget that Hurricane Mitch hit in 1998, leaving Nicaragua with $1B in damage. Between the politics and natural disasters, this country just can't seem to catch a break. And I thought I'd had a couple of bad years.
So politically & economically speaking, Nicaragua's got a ways to go still. But because I believe in looking on the bright side and because the sun still rises and the sun still sets, I'll go ahead and say what this country lacks in politics, it makes up for tenfold in natural beauty. Beautiful beaches, agricultural countryside, lush cool mountain regions, towering volcanoes. Which is why, despite the politics, many Americans are chosing to retire here. Anyone care to join me?
(I can't believe I just chose to study history on a Friday night... )
Also, thanks to wikipedia and Nations Encyclopedia for all the info. If you don't trust these sources, you're welcome to suggests edits to the blog- or better yet, just make the edits on wikipedia yourself.
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| Cathedral in San Ramon |
Crazy thing about this mural: the Devil looks JUST like Daniel Ortega, the current president of Nicaragua. However, Ortega didn't really come into the Nica political scene until the late 70s. Creepy?
 |
| See the resemblance? |
So, let's start with the spanish word "metido" which is often used to describe the current government's role in Nicaragua. It means something like "mixed up in" or "meddled in." The current government under Daniel Ortega is "metido" in various industries, including hotels and black beans. And while we can criticize the gov't here all we want, we should be careful where we point our fingers...
From 1909 until 1933, the United States grew in influence in Nicaragua (or better said, the US got "metido" in Nicaragua). How? US banks gave money to the bankrupt Treasury and US marines and warships showed up to support conservative president Adolfo DÃaz. US forces stayed metido in Nicaraguan politics with handpicked rulers until August 1925. Then the marines withdrew, didn't like the outcome, came back and reinstated their government and then finally withdrew in 1933, leaving behind the Nicaraguan National Guard, led by Anastasio Somoza GarcÃa.
After a popular rebellion resulted in the overthrow and exile of dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle in 1979, Daniel Ortega became a member of the ruling multipartisan junta (then became the de facto dictator) and was later elected president, serving from 1985 to 1990. Soon after Ortega came onto the scene, the US got "metido" again, funding the opposition or "Contras." In 1986, the World Court ruled that the United States had violated international law by mining the harbors in Nicaragua, but we refused to recognize the decision. That same year, we found out the US government funds from covert arms sales to Iran had been secretly given to the contras, even though Congress had banned aid (aka Iran-Contra scandal or "metido" big time).
Needless to say, Nicaragua fell into civil war and anyone with enough money and sense fled the country. (I don't know that it can technically be called a civil war if there is another country getting involved, but I guess we'd be hard pressed to find a civil war that falls into this pure definition)
With the earthquake and revolution and "civil war," Nicaragua experienced an economic downturn of epic magnitude. Previously the most developed economy of Central America, Nicaragua is now the 2nd poorest country in all of Latin America, behind Haiti.
And you can guess why the US was not keen on Ortega: his first period in office included a controversial program of land reform and wealth redistribution. When Ortega was defeated by Violeta Barrios de Chamorro in the 1990 presidential election, he did actually step down peacefully. And he was an unsuccessful candidate for president in 1996 and 2001 before winning the 2006 presidential election. .
So what about Ortega, you ask? I mean, he's painted as the devil in a church. (remember at this point we don't much like the Somozas or the US much either).
Sexual abuse allegations: Ok, this probably isn't top of anyone else's list, but I found it disturbing. His adopted stepdaughter wrote a 48 pg report accusing him of sexually abusing her from the time she was 11 until she was 22. Case couldn't proceed because Ortega had immunity as a member of parliament.
Economic control: Ortega, his family and lucky friends are metido in a few industries for their own profit, including black beans. Which leads nicely into...
Political alliances: Yes, that's right. Ortega is bff with Hugo Chavez in Venezuela. Hence why Nicaraguan subsistence farmers are growing black beans, which they don't eat, for a price that's supposedly higher than the international price. And there are only about 4-5 companies supposedly allowed to export black beans, only to Venezuela, even though its a "free market." Talk about profitable friendships.
But let's not forget that we're also not that keen on Ortegas' competition for the 2011 election: Arnoldo Alemán, who was formerly president of Nicaragua between Chamorro and Ortega's second term. Aleman was formally charged in December 2002 and was sentenced a year later to a 20-year prison term for some pretty bad stuff, including money laundering, embezzlement and corruption. Apparently, he had a little too much fun with the gov't AMEX "including a $13,755 bill for the Ritz Carlton hotel in Bali and $68,506 for hotel expenses and handicrafts in India." In 2004, Transparency International named him the ninth most corrupt leader, estimating that he had stolen about $100 million. METIDO Why hasn't Hollywood made a movie about this?
Then of course, arch enemies Aleman and Ortega made a strategic alliance, which got Aleman off the hook for his jail sentence and got Ortega back into the presidency. And these are the two that are running in 2011. Great.
On top of all that, don't forget that Hurricane Mitch hit in 1998, leaving Nicaragua with $1B in damage. Between the politics and natural disasters, this country just can't seem to catch a break. And I thought I'd had a couple of bad years.
So politically & economically speaking, Nicaragua's got a ways to go still. But because I believe in looking on the bright side and because the sun still rises and the sun still sets, I'll go ahead and say what this country lacks in politics, it makes up for tenfold in natural beauty. Beautiful beaches, agricultural countryside, lush cool mountain regions, towering volcanoes. Which is why, despite the politics, many Americans are chosing to retire here. Anyone care to join me?
Also, thanks to wikipedia and Nations Encyclopedia for all the info. If you don't trust these sources, you're welcome to suggests edits to the blog- or better yet, just make the edits on wikipedia yourself.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Keeping up with the Nicas
So every country has it's own unique culture... and it's time for a little Nica 101.
- How to say no like a Nica:
Don't you dare smile. Just stare and move your index finger back and forth. There should be no other movement involved. Just your finger.
- How to mix your drink like a Nica:
Take that same useful finger and stick in your drink. Swirl. Repeat with the next rum & coke. No spoon necessary, and swirling your glass just will NOT cut it.
- How to cool off like a (rural) Nica:
Pull up your wife beater and stick out your belly. Voila- almost as good as AC. For the most impressive Nica bellies head to rural beaches. I'll try to get a picture....
And finally, how to dance like a Nica: don't be a gringa.
I found a dance studio within walking distance. I seriously think God created this part of Managua with me in mind.... gringos, restaurants, a room with AC and a dance studio. Thank you!
Anyways, I decided to try out "Ritmos latinos" last night and though I thoroughly enjoyed it, I learned I have no ritmo. Ballet training doesn't exactly include Shakira moves.
The studio is "indoors" with all the window open, so no AC and no breeze. Think of dancing in a sauna. The teacher had a ton of energy given that this was basically bikram. He (though it took me a moment for that fact to register) also LOVES to shake it. And unlike the rest of the girls (and a few guys) in the class, I am not latina. My feet got about 90% of the moves and my hips got about 30%. And my abs were killing me.
Guess I'll just have to go back. Salsa next time?
- How to say no like a Nica:
Don't you dare smile. Just stare and move your index finger back and forth. There should be no other movement involved. Just your finger.
- How to mix your drink like a Nica:
Take that same useful finger and stick in your drink. Swirl. Repeat with the next rum & coke. No spoon necessary, and swirling your glass just will NOT cut it.
- How to cool off like a (rural) Nica:
Pull up your wife beater and stick out your belly. Voila- almost as good as AC. For the most impressive Nica bellies head to rural beaches. I'll try to get a picture....
And finally, how to dance like a Nica: don't be a gringa.
I found a dance studio within walking distance. I seriously think God created this part of Managua with me in mind.... gringos, restaurants, a room with AC and a dance studio. Thank you!
Anyways, I decided to try out "Ritmos latinos" last night and though I thoroughly enjoyed it, I learned I have no ritmo. Ballet training doesn't exactly include Shakira moves.
The studio is "indoors" with all the window open, so no AC and no breeze. Think of dancing in a sauna. The teacher had a ton of energy given that this was basically bikram. He (though it took me a moment for that fact to register) also LOVES to shake it. And unlike the rest of the girls (and a few guys) in the class, I am not latina. My feet got about 90% of the moves and my hips got about 30%. And my abs were killing me.
Guess I'll just have to go back. Salsa next time?
Beans, beans, beans
So it's probably about time I explain exactly what I'm working on here...
For the first 2 months here, I've been tasked with a project for the bean industry in Nicaragua. Which naturally raises the question "What kind of beans?" Frijoles. Specifically red beans, though black beans as well.
For the first 2 months here, I've been tasked with a project for the bean industry in Nicaragua. Which naturally raises the question "What kind of beans?" Frijoles. Specifically red beans, though black beans as well. Nicas LOVE their red beans. They eat rice and beans, generally "gallo pinto," multiple times a day. As one of my coworkers put it, "if the meal doesn't have beans, I'm not satisfied."
 |
| Gallo pinto aka "spotted rooster" |
In Nicaragua, there are more than 200K farmers producing dry beans, mainly red but black as well (especially now that Pres Daniel Ortega is in cahoots with Chavez so Nicaragua is now growing and exporting black beans to Venezuela to swap for oil). Most of the bean farmers are incredibly poor and end up consuming the beans themselves (subsistence farming), unless there's enough to sell for a small income. The goal of the project is ultimately to help these smallholder farmers, in line with Technoserve's logo "Business solutions for the poor."
Seems like a fairly straightforward problem then.... get the farmers more profit. Which means we can increase their productivity, increase the price of beans or decrease their costs. Deceptively simple.
These farmers are poor, living in rural areas, uneducated, no access to credit, minimal training on farm management, little understanding of irrigation and little use of fertilizer, certified seed, pesticides and other inputs. They could get a better quality (and better price) and increase production by using inputs, but they need to be able to access credit, which means having a guarantee and probably understanding bookkeeping, and they need to be able to understand how to use the inputs correctly, which means training and technical assistance. And if there's too much rain or too little, it could all fail.
On top of it all, Nicaragua already exports beans (normally*). So increased production, while good for farmer income originally, would ultimately flood the domestic markets and cause prices to drop. Not so good for Farmer Juan.
So my focus, besides understanding all these issues and identifying potential solutions, is to identify international market opportunities where we could sell this hypothetical new supply of beans. And then, hopefully that new market opportunity would spur organizations and businesses to invest in the bean industry and these smallholder farmers would learn how increase production. And then Farmer Juan would be able to grow more beans, make more money, send his kids to school and the whole of Nicaragua will be lifted out of poverty. (a girl can dream, can't she?)
*Now it just so happens that Nicaragua has had ton of rain over the past months, which means about 30% less beans than normal. Which means shortage and high prices. So beans are ALL over the front pages of the newspaper and its about all anybody talks about. Couldn't be better timing for this study?
Anyways, it's a whole lot more complicated than all that, but you get the jist of it :)
A night to remember
So my first weekend in Nicaragua, I went to a beach near Leon with a few Americans and had an absolute blast. This weekend I stayed around Managua, planning on a low key weekend with some business school essay writing and extra sleep. Which was pretty much the case, except for Friday.
On Friday, I went to a concert unlike any other I'd ever been to. To be fair, I had an idea of what I was getting into... other girls turned down the opportunity to go to this techno "rave." In all fairness, it was neither a rave or just techno. Instead, I found myself surrounded by crazy teenage Nicas with no understanding of personal space, listening to a band (which included saxophone, guitar, keyboard and xylophone) jam out to some sort of merengue/bachata/techno with crazy lighting and video on all four sides of me, and of course, a fog machine. And I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
And then the chick fight broke out. At first I thought it was two guys because 1) that would make more sense and 2) it was so intense. But then we noticed the clump of hair on the ground- still hoping it was just extensions. I never did find out exactly how it started; just thankful I got to witness a chick fight once in my life. Just sorry I didn't have my camera.
On Friday, I went to a concert unlike any other I'd ever been to. To be fair, I had an idea of what I was getting into... other girls turned down the opportunity to go to this techno "rave." In all fairness, it was neither a rave or just techno. Instead, I found myself surrounded by crazy teenage Nicas with no understanding of personal space, listening to a band (which included saxophone, guitar, keyboard and xylophone) jam out to some sort of merengue/bachata/techno with crazy lighting and video on all four sides of me, and of course, a fog machine. And I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
And then the chick fight broke out. At first I thought it was two guys because 1) that would make more sense and 2) it was so intense. But then we noticed the clump of hair on the ground- still hoping it was just extensions. I never did find out exactly how it started; just thankful I got to witness a chick fight once in my life. Just sorry I didn't have my camera.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Nesting
So I've felt a little off balance for the past week with all the change: new work, new country, new language (which I still suck at, by the way, even after nearly 10 years of studying!), new friends, new coworkers, new transportation (taxis), etc. But today I finally moved into my "apartment" which should more aptly be called a "studio," or better yet just "room." And I realized that even the last 5 months living in a studio in Dallas, eating off paper plates and spending a few nights a week in a hotel in Tampa, I still had a sort of home. And I missed that.
Pero ahora tengo un hogar en Managua!
 |
| "Kitchen"- practically had to stand in the shower to take this :) Good thing I've never been much of a cook. Cereal, PB&J, PB& nutella & turkey sandwiches it is! |
  |
| Probably the cutest fridge ever and now filled with all my favorites. Special thanks to Jorge, my taxi driver, who waited while I investigated every isle. At one point he called and I had to explain I was still inside. Totally the gringa- everyone else was buying the typical 5-10 items and I've got a cart full of American brands. Who would have thought to find Dove, Clean Works, St Ives, Clorox, Nutella, Hunt's, Chips Ahoy, Ziploc, Peter Pan, Del Monte, Yoplait, Cup o Noodles and French's? Yes, yes I should branch out. But we're talking about the comforts of home. Turns out you can buy happiness :) |
I've already started cleaning, washing dishes, unpacking and "cooking" (aka PB&J for dinner). Feeling a bit like "Monica" from friends, but I can't help it- a girl's gotta nest!
Friday, October 8, 2010
And it all pays off...
So today was one of the most rewarding of my life, which I realize seems rather extreme to say. Let me explain....
I've been interested in int'l development for nearly 6 years now and while I've tried to pursue some of my own research and experiences abroad, to date it's been rather hazy and unfulfilling. Reading books and volunteering just doesn't really cut it when you look around and still feel like you can't really make a difference.
Meanwhile, I've been working at Bain, which is an absolutely fantastic job most of the time. Unfortunately, int'l development isn't part of the work.
But today it all came together- I got to use my consulting skills to actually frame an int'l development problem. A little context: most consultants find whiteboards incredibly tempting, as if they're waiting for us to fill them up with grand ideas to solve some elaborate problem. Think of John Nash in a beautiful mind trying to come up with a formula for the movement of pigeons on his dorm room window. Probably a little crazy and most definitely nerdy.
Today I filled up the whiteboard at least 3 times. I had to keep typing it all in ppt (another overused consultant tool) and erasing. I nearly took a picture of the whiteboard each time because I was so proud- absolutely ridiculous but I was grinning from ear to ear.
Cause this is it. I'm doing what I want to be doing. Granted, it's not a full time job and my mind is of course reeling with "what next"? (As my mom says- "you would enjoy life a lot more if you just stopped thinking about it so much")
But what can I say? I get excited about possibilities and love thinking about them. Who knows if I'll actually be able to deliver on the massive amounts of analysis I just sketched out. Who knows if this will actually make any difference whatsoever. But for tonight, I'm content with my place in this world and finally feel like I can bring something valuable to it in the way that I've been dying to. They actually mentioned having me teach a workshop on creating hypotheses for all the Nicaraguan staff here. Me, the girl who only ever had a few inputs into the teams' hypothesis is now coming up with her own (with of course, some help) and teaching others!!!
Then after this incredible day of work, I went to dinner with the technical advisor who's here just this week- hugely helpful by the way. We talked about all his crazy adventures and his thoughts on all things int'l development (fair trade, why Latin America gets so overlooked, microfinance, non-profit combined with for-profit models, the World Bank, etc). He's seen the whole picture and has an inside track to all the research (plus he's done a LOT of it). Just absolutely incredible and I'm so sad he's leaving tomorrow. Thankfully, he's been tossing me thumb drives all day long of articles and reports to read later.
So now I'm sitting in bed, listening to Juanes (trying to make up for the fact that I've spoken less than an hour of Spanish in a Spanish-speaking country over the last 3 days) and writing this blog on a Friday night. Most may consider it lame that I passed up a chance to see a Flamenco show and salsa dancing (and we all know how much I LOVE to dance). But I couldn't be happier.
Next goals: post some pictures and speak Spanish more. And laundry.
I've been interested in int'l development for nearly 6 years now and while I've tried to pursue some of my own research and experiences abroad, to date it's been rather hazy and unfulfilling. Reading books and volunteering just doesn't really cut it when you look around and still feel like you can't really make a difference.
Meanwhile, I've been working at Bain, which is an absolutely fantastic job most of the time. Unfortunately, int'l development isn't part of the work.
But today it all came together- I got to use my consulting skills to actually frame an int'l development problem. A little context: most consultants find whiteboards incredibly tempting, as if they're waiting for us to fill them up with grand ideas to solve some elaborate problem. Think of John Nash in a beautiful mind trying to come up with a formula for the movement of pigeons on his dorm room window. Probably a little crazy and most definitely nerdy.
Today I filled up the whiteboard at least 3 times. I had to keep typing it all in ppt (another overused consultant tool) and erasing. I nearly took a picture of the whiteboard each time because I was so proud- absolutely ridiculous but I was grinning from ear to ear.
Cause this is it. I'm doing what I want to be doing. Granted, it's not a full time job and my mind is of course reeling with "what next"? (As my mom says- "you would enjoy life a lot more if you just stopped thinking about it so much")
But what can I say? I get excited about possibilities and love thinking about them. Who knows if I'll actually be able to deliver on the massive amounts of analysis I just sketched out. Who knows if this will actually make any difference whatsoever. But for tonight, I'm content with my place in this world and finally feel like I can bring something valuable to it in the way that I've been dying to. They actually mentioned having me teach a workshop on creating hypotheses for all the Nicaraguan staff here. Me, the girl who only ever had a few inputs into the teams' hypothesis is now coming up with her own (with of course, some help) and teaching others!!!
Then after this incredible day of work, I went to dinner with the technical advisor who's here just this week- hugely helpful by the way. We talked about all his crazy adventures and his thoughts on all things int'l development (fair trade, why Latin America gets so overlooked, microfinance, non-profit combined with for-profit models, the World Bank, etc). He's seen the whole picture and has an inside track to all the research (plus he's done a LOT of it). Just absolutely incredible and I'm so sad he's leaving tomorrow. Thankfully, he's been tossing me thumb drives all day long of articles and reports to read later.
So now I'm sitting in bed, listening to Juanes (trying to make up for the fact that I've spoken less than an hour of Spanish in a Spanish-speaking country over the last 3 days) and writing this blog on a Friday night. Most may consider it lame that I passed up a chance to see a Flamenco show and salsa dancing (and we all know how much I LOVE to dance). But I couldn't be happier.
Next goals: post some pictures and speak Spanish more. And laundry.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Overload
Where to begin.... It's only day 2 and I can't even remember all of day 1!
First, let me start by saying the people here are SUPER nice and so eager to help. I arrived at the airport and didn't have cash for the $10 tourism fee, so this guy escorted me to an ATM and got me back through security (you have to be a trusting person in Latin America and fly by the seat of your pants... unfortunately I'm really only good at the first). Then I got my bags and walked outside to meet my ride, hoping he/she would be there. Another guy asked where I was going and then started shouting my hotel name, so my ride found me. Thank God there are people less timid than myself to do these kinds of ridiculous things.
Arrived at the hotel and pretty much went to bed. Super excited, no nerves, very strange. Can't help but feel supremely grateful for the fact that I'm finally getting to do what I want to do, even if at moments I want to do nothing more than run back to the states.
Day 1 was nothing if overwhelming. Loads and loads of information about an industry I know nothing about, in Spanish, with tons of vocabulary I don't know. Beans seemed so deceptively simple: plant, wash, package, sell (and maybe sell a couple more times throughout). Apparently it's not so easy....
On top of feeling completely overwhelmed with this project I have to "lead" and complete in 40 days, I'm adjusting to new food, new language, new office, new coworkers, lack of car, lack of direction, etc. Exhausting!
So let's focus on the things I'm thankful for:
+ My hotel has hot water and AC. Lap of luxury.
+ There's a Sr. Advisor here from the UK, complete with English accent, basic Spanish and lots of awesome stories about drunk elephants and world travels and tropical fruits... So conversation has all been in English, stories have been great distractions for my nerves and I've got a friend to help think through all this information.
+ The office staff are absolutely wonderful, which makes it easy to ask stupid questions and rely on them for simple things like rides, finding the bathroom, meals, internet codes, printing, finding an apartment, etc. No matter how many times I do this, I'm always caught off guard by the disorienting feeling of losing independence.
+ There are Americans here. And not just one or two. There is another expat Pete who works full-time at Technoserve who gives me rides to work everyday. He lives close by with 2 American roommates in a complex where even more Americans live. On my first night they had a birthday party for 2 girls and I walk in and there are 20 Americans all sitting around talking in English! Blows my mind
Compare that to 3 months in the Dominican Republic and you'll understand why I'm so thrilled:
+ Less than 40 hrs per week to keep me busy
+ Hardly any friends
+ Only one American that I could only see on weekends
+ No AC
+ No hot water (in fact, I showered with buckets of rainwater most the time)
So with Day 2 perspective, I've got to say Day 1 was incredibly awesome. I just keep telling myself I can do this, so that part of the time I actually believe it. I don't think I was ever cut out to do this kind of thing, but I'm doing it. I probably just need to cut myself some lack- it is only day 2. :)
First, let me start by saying the people here are SUPER nice and so eager to help. I arrived at the airport and didn't have cash for the $10 tourism fee, so this guy escorted me to an ATM and got me back through security (you have to be a trusting person in Latin America and fly by the seat of your pants... unfortunately I'm really only good at the first). Then I got my bags and walked outside to meet my ride, hoping he/she would be there. Another guy asked where I was going and then started shouting my hotel name, so my ride found me. Thank God there are people less timid than myself to do these kinds of ridiculous things.
Arrived at the hotel and pretty much went to bed. Super excited, no nerves, very strange. Can't help but feel supremely grateful for the fact that I'm finally getting to do what I want to do, even if at moments I want to do nothing more than run back to the states.
Day 1 was nothing if overwhelming. Loads and loads of information about an industry I know nothing about, in Spanish, with tons of vocabulary I don't know. Beans seemed so deceptively simple: plant, wash, package, sell (and maybe sell a couple more times throughout). Apparently it's not so easy....
On top of feeling completely overwhelmed with this project I have to "lead" and complete in 40 days, I'm adjusting to new food, new language, new office, new coworkers, lack of car, lack of direction, etc. Exhausting!
So let's focus on the things I'm thankful for:
+ My hotel has hot water and AC. Lap of luxury.
+ There's a Sr. Advisor here from the UK, complete with English accent, basic Spanish and lots of awesome stories about drunk elephants and world travels and tropical fruits... So conversation has all been in English, stories have been great distractions for my nerves and I've got a friend to help think through all this information.
+ The office staff are absolutely wonderful, which makes it easy to ask stupid questions and rely on them for simple things like rides, finding the bathroom, meals, internet codes, printing, finding an apartment, etc. No matter how many times I do this, I'm always caught off guard by the disorienting feeling of losing independence.
+ There are Americans here. And not just one or two. There is another expat Pete who works full-time at Technoserve who gives me rides to work everyday. He lives close by with 2 American roommates in a complex where even more Americans live. On my first night they had a birthday party for 2 girls and I walk in and there are 20 Americans all sitting around talking in English! Blows my mind
Compare that to 3 months in the Dominican Republic and you'll understand why I'm so thrilled:
+ Less than 40 hrs per week to keep me busy
+ Hardly any friends
+ Only one American that I could only see on weekends
+ No AC
+ No hot water (in fact, I showered with buckets of rainwater most the time)
So with Day 2 perspective, I've got to say Day 1 was incredibly awesome. I just keep telling myself I can do this, so that part of the time I actually believe it. I don't think I was ever cut out to do this kind of thing, but I'm doing it. I probably just need to cut myself some lack- it is only day 2. :)
Monday, October 4, 2010
Almost there
Hi all! I fly to Nicaragua tomorrow so wanted to get my blog set up before I head out. Honestly, pretty excited at this point, just waiting to see when the nerves hit. Thankfully, I've had an awesome weekend of training in Cancun at the Ritz (yes, I'm spoiled, I know). Beach time, training while lounging in the pool, great food, crazy Americanized clubs and sleep. Even managed to get a tan and not burn too terribly (a real accomplishment for those of you who know me).
When I told my Grandma Betty I was going to Managua, she immediately broke into song. Thanks to google, I found "Managua, Nicaragua" sung by Guy Lombardo in 1946 (don't ask me who that is). So here it is, for your reading enjoyment:
Managua, Nicaragua is a beautiful town
You buy a hacienda for a few pesos down
You give it to the lady you are tryin' to win
But her papa doesn't let you come in
Managua, Nicaragua is a heavenly place
You ask a senorita for a 'leetle' embrace
She answers you, "Caramba! scram-ba bambarito"
In Managua, Nicaragua, that's "No"
I have been to many tropic ports
I might include even Brooklyn
If you're ever feelin' out of sorts
I'd like to recommend a look in...
Managua, Nicaragua, what a wonderful spot
There's coffee and bananas and a temperature hot
So take a trip and on a ship go sailing away
Across the agua to Managua, Nicaragua, ol
Across the agua to Managua, Nicaragua, ol
I recognize this song isn't much of an update on me or what the heck I'm doing in Nicaragua, but there's plenty of time for that later and I don't feel much like writing it now. So stay tuned....
When I told my Grandma Betty I was going to Managua, she immediately broke into song. Thanks to google, I found "Managua, Nicaragua" sung by Guy Lombardo in 1946 (don't ask me who that is). So here it is, for your reading enjoyment:
Managua, Nicaragua is a beautiful town
You buy a hacienda for a few pesos down
You give it to the lady you are tryin' to win
But her papa doesn't let you come in
Managua, Nicaragua is a heavenly place
You ask a senorita for a 'leetle' embrace
She answers you, "Caramba! scram-ba bambarito"
In Managua, Nicaragua, that's "No"
I have been to many tropic ports
I might include even Brooklyn
If you're ever feelin' out of sorts
I'd like to recommend a look in...
Managua, Nicaragua, what a wonderful spot
There's coffee and bananas and a temperature hot
So take a trip and on a ship go sailing away
Across the agua to Managua, Nicaragua, ol
Across the agua to Managua, Nicaragua, ol
I recognize this song isn't much of an update on me or what the heck I'm doing in Nicaragua, but there's plenty of time for that later and I don't feel much like writing it now. So stay tuned....
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