This is the way it is...

I've spent a good portion of this week traveling around Nicaragua for intereviews, including cities of Jinotega, Matagalpa, Sebaco and Esteli.  On Thursday, we met one bean producer in San Ramon. 

Cathedral in San Ramon

And before the interview, we stopped by the local cathedral to see a particular mural of the Devil tempting Jesus, supposedly painted at least 50 years ago. 

Crazy thing about this mural: the Devil looks JUST like Daniel Ortega, the current president of Nicaragua.  However, Ortega didn't really come into the Nica political scene until the late 70s.  Creepy?

See the resemblance?

So it's probably about time I understand what's been going on in this country politically, since as you'll see in a moment, it got an impact on bean study. And while I could start with Gil Gonzalez de Avila back in 1522, I'm not a big history buff and I don't think you all really care that much anyways.  I'll try to keep this interesting...

So, let's start with the spanish word "metido" which is often used to describe the current government's role in Nicaragua.  It means something like "mixed up in" or "meddled in." The current government under Daniel Ortega is "metido" in various industries, including hotels and black beans.  And while we can criticize the gov't here all we want, we should be careful where we point our fingers...

From 1909 until 1933, the United States grew in influence in Nicaragua (or better said, the US got "metido" in Nicaragua). How? US banks gave money to the bankrupt Treasury and US marines and warships showed up to support conservative president Adolfo Díaz. US forces stayed metido in Nicaraguan politics with handpicked rulers until August 1925. Then the marines withdrew, didn't like the outcome, came back and reinstated their government and then finally withdrew in 1933, leaving behind the Nicaraguan National Guard, led by Anastasio Somoza García.

Then began the Somoza family dynasty, which lasted until 1979 due to rigged elections, military support, economic control and of course, US support.  Unfortunately, while there was good economic growth in the 60s and 70s, there was not democracy or political freedom.   Then, on December 23, 1972, Manauga experienced a major earthquake of 6.0 with two 5.0 and 5.2 aftershocks. About 5,000 died, 20,000 were injured and 250,000 were left homeless.  My coworker's parents were supposed to get married the next day, but the church and reception no longer existed. 

As before, the Somoza family continued their monopolistic and corrupt economic control with the international aid money.  Apparently about half the US relief aid money "disappeared" and most of the  rebuilding of Managua was done by Somoza-controlled firms on Somoza land. Not surprisingly, Somoza's opposition grew and US support did the opposite.

Interesting fact: Because there was no money used to replan the capital and new streets were never defined, the current city is a mess of directions.  To get anywhere in a taxi Nicas have to say things like "Left at the corner were the Pepsi plant USED to be, the 5 blocks south, etc."  Nightmare for the gringa.

After a popular rebellion resulted in the overthrow and exile of dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle in 1979, Daniel Ortega became a member of the ruling multipartisan junta (then became the de facto dictator) and was later elected president, serving from 1985 to 1990.  Soon after Ortega came onto the scene, the US got "metido" again, funding the opposition or "Contras."  In 1986, the World Court ruled that the United States had violated international law by mining the harbors in Nicaragua, but we refused to recognize the decision. That same year, we found out the US government funds from covert arms sales to Iran had been secretly given to the contras, even though Congress had banned aid (aka Iran-Contra scandal or "metido" big time).

Needless to say, Nicaragua fell into civil war and anyone with enough money and sense fled the country. (I don't know that it can technically be called a civil war if there is another country getting involved, but I guess we'd be hard pressed to find a civil war that falls into this pure definition)

With the earthquake and revolution and "civil war," Nicaragua experienced an economic downturn of epic magnitude.  Previously the most developed economy of Central America, Nicaragua is now the 2nd poorest country in all of Latin America, behind Haiti.

And you can guess why the US was not keen on Ortega: his first period in office included a controversial program of land reform and wealth redistribution. When Ortega was defeated by Violeta Barrios de Chamorro in the 1990 presidential election, he did actually step down peacefully.   And he was an unsuccessful candidate for president in 1996 and 2001 before winning the 2006 presidential election. .

So what about Ortega, you ask?  I mean, he's painted as the devil in a church.  (remember at this point we don't much like the Somozas or the US much either).

Sexual abuse allegations: Ok, this probably isn't top of anyone else's list, but I found it disturbing.  His adopted stepdaughter wrote a 48 pg report accusing him of sexually abusing her from the time she was 11 until she was 22.  Case couldn't proceed because Ortega had immunity as a member of parliament. 

Economic control:  Ortega, his family and lucky friends are metido in a few industries for their own profit, including black beans. Which leads nicely into...

Political alliances: Yes, that's right.  Ortega is bff with Hugo Chavez in Venezuela.  Hence why Nicaraguan subsistence farmers are growing black beans, which they don't eat, for a price that's supposedly higher than the international price.  And there are only about 4-5 companies supposedly allowed to export black beans, only to Venezuela, even though its a "free market."  Talk about profitable friendships.

But let's not forget that we're also not that keen on Ortegas' competition for the 2011 election: Arnoldo Alemán, who was formerly president of Nicaragua between Chamorro and Ortega's second term.  Aleman was formally charged in December 2002 and was sentenced a year later to a 20-year prison term for some pretty bad stuff, including money laundering, embezzlement and corruption.  Apparently, he had a little too much fun with the gov't AMEX "including a $13,755 bill for the Ritz Carlton hotel in Bali and $68,506 for hotel expenses and handicrafts in India."  In 2004, Transparency International named him the ninth most corrupt leader, estimating that he had stolen about $100 million.  METIDO Why hasn't Hollywood made a movie about this?

Then of course, arch enemies Aleman and Ortega made a strategic alliance, which got Aleman off the hook for his jail sentence and got Ortega back into the presidency.  And these are the two that are running in 2011.  Great.

On top of all that, don't forget that Hurricane Mitch hit in 1998, leaving Nicaragua with $1B in damage. Between the politics and natural disasters, this country just can't seem to catch a break.  And I thought I'd had a couple of bad years.

So politically & economically speaking, Nicaragua's got a ways to go still.  But because I believe in looking on the bright side and because the sun still rises and the sun still sets, I'll go ahead and say what this country lacks in politics, it makes up for tenfold in natural beauty.  Beautiful beaches, agricultural countryside, lush cool mountain regions, towering volcanoes.  Which is why, despite the politics, many Americans are chosing to retire here.  Anyone care to join me?

(I can't believe I just chose to study history on a Friday night... )

Also, thanks to wikipedia and Nations Encyclopedia for all the info.  If you don't trust these sources, you're welcome to suggests edits to the blog- or better yet, just make the edits on wikipedia yourself.